Two Okoto and Tokuri (pink background and spring image)

What is pairing?

Bonito tapping and Tokuri & Ochoko

Recently, "pairing" is often heard. There may be many people who are vague about what it means. What is pairing and pairing?"Combination of dishes that go well with alcohol"You read it right!

Sake is mainly made from rice. Rice with plenty of amino acids, which are a source of umami, has a deep bosom. Freshly cooked Hoka Hoka Gohan goes well with any kind of okazu.

The same goes for sake.The range of dishes that can be combined with wines with strong acidity is very wide.Is a big feature. However, in recent years, sake has become more and more diversified.

The era of a hundred flower rebellion has arrived, such as fragrant Ginjo sake reminiscent of bananas and apples, fresh sake, high acid sake, rich unfiltered raw sake, nigari sake, sparkling type, etc. doing.

In addition to Japanese cuisine, it is now Japan that offers a wide variety of flavors, including French, Italian, Spanish, Chinese, ethnic, Turkish and Middle Eastern cuisine.

So I really want you to knowRules for pairing sake. Let's enjoy the sake life more thoroughly by mastering the matching method of sake and cooking.

If you drink sake with your family and friends, if you propose a delicious combination, you will surely be able to play both frogs and stories, and smile more.

By the way, in the world of alcohol, it ’s similar to pairing,"Marriage"I often hear the word. Mariage means “marriage” in French. Basically, pairing and mariage are commonly used to mean “combination”.

However, mariage has a good combination of alcohol and food,It often includes the nuance of “creating a new third taste”Is the feature.

 

Wine pairing, which has a longer history than sake

Red wine poured into wine bottle and glass

In the world of wine, pairing has been established much earlier than sake. Was born1980s.

The origin of this isAlain Sandras (1939-2017) who was the owner and chef of the three-star restaurant “Luka Carton” in Paris, France.

Sandras is a genius who created a new trend in French cuisine, the “Nouvelle Cuisine” in the 1960-70 era. Breaking the common sense of “drinking wine by bottle”"This wine has this wine"We have invented a pairing service.

The style of combining different wines for each dish is a novel idea that no one thought of at that time. People say that it was even called “revolutionary”.

このWine pairing is rapidly gaining popularity in Japan in recent years. An increasing number of restaurants have set up wine pairing courses since around 2010.

 

Pairing effect

White sashimi and sake bottle and lean sashimi

In pairing, the following joyful effects can be obtained.

·tuning

To match things that are similar in aroma and taste"tuning"Is called.

Because they are similar,The effect that sake and cooking do not impair each other's taste, fight, and create a balance that is mixed together in the mouth.

The point isAnyway finding common elements between sake and cooking. And it is to arrange the volume of scent and taste.

·masking

What is “masking”?The effect of wrapping and mitigating the unique odor of seafood, seaweed, and meat.

Sake has long been a favorite in cooking as a “smell eraser”. The secret is abundant in sakeamino acid. This is why the smell of the material itself is sublimated to the taste.

·Synergy

By pairing,Taste is increased compared to the case of a single unit, and the taste is upgraded to a higher level.To do. This is also a lot of sakeThe power of amino acids.

・ Complement

The effect of complementing sweetness, sourness, bitterness, umami, and salty taste (gomi), which are elements of basic taste.

For example, if you combine sake and salted salt, you can make up for the salty taste that isn't included in sake and the sake is completed.

・ Wash

"Wash"The effect of washing away the greasy, spicy, and bitterness of dishes with your mouth.is. Also called “reset”.

 

Knowing the rules, pairing is not difficult!

A woman who explains and explains specific pairing rules and techniques

Now that you understand the effects of pairing, I'll explain specific pairing rules and techniques.

・ Pairing with `` Taste shade ''

Matching the “light and shade of taste” is the basic of the basics of pairingis. Let's first remember this law well.

The rules are very simple. For light and light dishes, combine light sake with a light taste, and for dishes with a rich taste on the other hand, add a solid taste of sake.

By combining the concentration of sake and taste,A comfortable balance is bornThat's why.

By the way, my Japanese sake teacher calls this rule "Seesaw's Law".Consider the point of balancing the weight of bothAnd the image is very easy to grasp. I think it ’s an exquisite naming.

If you follow this “seesaw law”, for example, if you have a sashimi of white fish with a light taste and a delicate taste, a refreshing type of sake is perfect. Each person's personality blossoms and a sense of unity spreads in the mouth.

On the other hand, if the dish is rich and tastefully seasoned, such as sukiyaki or eel kaba-yaki, the best match is the plump sake with a voluminous sense of rice that does not lose its rich taste. It is inevitable that both chopsticks and bowls go forward.

Let's be careful not to fall into the situation that you get on the tone and eat too much and drink too much, and get on the scale the next day and regret.

・ Pairing with "Texture"

Texture is what I say in Japanese"Texture"It is. It is often called “feeling of the tongue”, “texture” or “drinking mouth”.

A thick textured sake is combined with a dish that has a similar texture.And a sense of unity will be improved.

Speaking of typical sake that can enjoy a thick texture,"Nigori Sake"It will be.

Speaking of nibori sake, it is divided into two types: a thick “torotoro type” that contains plenty of starch, and a “smooth type” that has a small amount of starch and a clear portion.

For thick-type nigari sake, dishes with a firm feel (such as gratin) and sticky textures (cream cheese, etc.) are used. If you add them together, or Happo greens or crab balls), the texture will be the same and create an exquisite harmony.

・ Pairing with “Production”

Sake made by fermenting,Also perfectly compatible with ingredients born from the fermentation processis. Like soy sauce, miso, and nanpura (fish sauce)Cooking with fermented seasoningsFits very well.

Also, pickle the salted fish with cooked rice and ageGood compatibility with lactic acid-fermented “Naruto”. Speaking of the most famous nabuchi, it is “Funazushi” from Lake Biwa.

Naruse is characterized by its unique acidity and smell, and it is a dish that clearly separates likes and dislikes, but it is surprisingly perfect when served with a solid and dark type of sake.

In addition, of course it is GOOD when combined with other fermented foods such as rice bran pickles and cheese!

・ Pairing at the sea or mountain

“Sea wine for seafood”.
“Mountain sake for mountain food”.

These are the pairing methods advocated by Atsuko Yamado, a freelance journalist who specializes in food and sake.

Yamado-san has written many books about sake. Many of you may have seen your name because it is a frequent contributor to the popular food magazine “dancyu” (President) and the cultural magazine “Sarai” (Shogakukan).

The local cuisine and the sake brewed in the area is a combination of iron plates that goes well with preeminentis. Because the climate and climate are the same, it is natural to say that.

However, as a result of Yamagata-san's many years of pairing, he came to the conclusion that“Even if the region is different, cooking and sake often complement each other if the climate and climate are similar.”It was that. This discovery led to these two laws.

First, the first"Sake from the sea for seafood"about. Sake made in a sake brewery near the seaSimple dishes using seafood are perfectit matchs.

In towns by the sea, you can get plenty of fresh seafood. Freshly picked seafood is usually cooked in a simple way, eaten raw, boiled or lightly cooked. The seasoning is often just salted, or a little soy sauce.

Freshly caught seafood that has just been landed will survive the original taste of the material if you do not touch it as much as possible.

like this,A refreshing, light-flavored sake is a great match for seafood-based dishesTo do.

And in fact, many sakes of the type just described are made in the brewery located near the sea. The taste is subdued, so it may feel a little unsatisfactory, but it has the power to bring out the charm of simple seafood dishes.

And the second one"Mountain sake for mountain food". Sake made in a sake brewery near the mountain includes dishes that are well seasoned,Meat dishes are perfectit matchs.

In the mountains and inland areas, it is hard to get fresh seafood. Therefore, it is a characteristic of this area that the preservation food culture is developed. Numerous dishes that have been devised to enhance their preservation, such as pickles, salted, fermented foods, and dishes that are deeply seasoned with miso and soy sauce, are lined up on a daily basis.

Many of the sakes in the mountain are finished in a strong, well-acidic, acid-rich type that takes advantage of the rich taste of the dishes..

In contrast to sea liquor, if you drink it alone, you may get a little too strong. However, when it is served with a strong habit, such as a crab or a deer, a perfect match. Plenty of voluminous taste firmly accepts dishes with a deep flavor.

・ Pairing in “temperature zone”

Sake is one of the great attractions that you can enjoy at any temperature. However,If you change the temperature according to the dishes, the perfection of pairing will greatly increaseTo do.

For easy-to-understand combinations with few failures,Pairing cold food with chilled liquor. It is also a good idea to add hot sake to warm dishes.

However, if you try various temperature zones without being too particular about these, you may be able to discover surprising and wonderful combinations.

By all means, try various temperature zones and find the right temperature to enhance your cuisine. The comfort and sense of accomplishment that will be created when you reach the best pairing through trial and error will surely be exceptional.

 

Innovative pairing proposed by young charismatic women in the sake world

Various spices in spoons and plates

Do you know a woman named Mari Chiba? It is the owner of the sake bar “GEM by moto” in Ebisu, Tokyo.

One reason Mari is called charismatic isA bold and innovative pairing method that sets you apart from other shops.

The concept of GEM by moto breaks the image of old sake and makes young women happyEnjoying “pairing with food”. We continue to provide innovative combinations that overturn traditional concepts.

The famous pairing that represents this shop is amazing,"Doubroku x Blue Cheese Ham Cutlet". Usually, sauce is applied to ham cutlet. But here, I ’m going to match the cradle instead of the sauce.

First, take a bite of ham cutlet. After that, if you quickly include the doboku in your mouth, it will change to taste just like a sauce! The milky sweetness derived from the rice grains of Dobukuro plays the role of the mild sweetness of the sauce. This is an idea that most ordinary people cannot think of.

Mari's unique pairing is not just an inspiration. It is based on a proper basis.

Marie says,What is necessary for cooking that matches sake is not included in sake.. “Scents” (such as herbs such as Pakuchi) that are not found in Japanese sake, “Sour and sweet” (such as fruits), “Spice” (such as yam and pepper), and “Oil” (such as olive oil) are added to the dishes. So when paired with sake"Third flavor"It seems that appears. In that sense, it may be close to the “mariage” mentioned above.

By the way, I will introduce another surprise pairing. that is,"Sparkling sake x fresh pepper". In the first place, it seems that you can hear the tsukkomi that pepper is not a dish but a spice.

First of all, let's throw the pepper into the mouth of the 1 and crush it. After that, if you drink sparkling sake quickly, it is strange that the pepper's spiciness disappears immediately and only the sweetness of sake remains in your mouth.

When I came to the store with a regular customer, I had these two pairings. Since I visited with no prior knowledge, when I came out with a grain pepper, I tried to be honest. I felt like I was shown a professional magic trick.

By the way, Mari-san is a documentary movie “Kampai!” Released in the spring of 2019. She has also appeared in Women who fell in love with sake.

This movie focuses on three female pioneers who are active in the world of sake. Not only can you rediscover the appeal of the world of sake, but it also gives you the courage to live in your own way.

 

Find your favorite pairing!

Sake is in a green choco and grabbing it in your hand

So far, I've written about the various rules and rules for pairing, but this is by no means all of them.Each person feels the aroma and taste.

Of course, there are 10 people and 10 colors. In addition, the way you taste depends on your physical condition, situation, and who you drink with.

So you don't have to think too hard.Please enjoy yourself with playfulness, depending on your sensibilities and preferences.

Don't worry if people point out that you don't like this pairing.

You never have to compare with others and you are not taking a test.The most important essence is to truly enjoy sake and cookingyou know.